Puerto Rican rum

[Matusalem]

This thread was started to answer some of the questions about Puerto Rican Rum.

Which raises the question - perhaps a side thread (and if so we can move the discussion), but why is Puerto Rican rum generally less diverse in flavor? Of course it's hard to tell a Puerto Rican that, but I tend to agree with the sentiments expressed. Puerto Rican rums are not completely without character it's just been my recent experience that most of what I've tasted is limited in array, and well to be honest I keep hardly any and any purchases were based on price rather than outstanding or intriguing taste (if you know what I mean).

Not meaning to step on Rican rum, just curious as I always am when ever a blanket statement comes forward that rings true with myself and my own personal taste. Are we just on the same page and have similar tastes on that particular rum destination or is there something else to it? Is the lack of diversity by design? Is that the best the industry there can do? Are most of the companies restricted to the same or similar productions thus similar results?

That last bit ( restrictions) came to mind in a discussion with a friend regarding spirits in general and how Barcardi had positioned itself into the top 15 or so brands on the market. The odd thing is they did so by selling quite a few million cases of rum. At the same time, several other brands that placed ahead of Barcardi did so selling quite a few million less cases world-wide. In the discussion I raised the point that there were 3 whiskey brands ahead and that I thought production costs generally were lower for rum - due to where it is generally produced - his assertion was that Bacardi was primarily produced in Puerto Rico and therefore likely subject to regulations (read final costs) not likely to resemble 3rd world wages and resources.

[Edward Hamilton]

The short answer is that most Puerto Rican rum is highly distilled from molasses, but too many people think of Bacardi when they think of Puerto Rican Rum, but there's a lot more to Puerto Rican Rum than Bacardi which is only recently gaining market share among local drinkers on that island.

I'll be editing this post as soon as time permits.

[Scottes]

I've tasted many white Puerto Rican rums - well, I think all of the ones that one can get in the US. Bacardi, Palo Viejo, DonQ, Ron Rico and Castillo. To generalize, I find them all harsh and fairly free of taste. But to be fair, this generalization fits just about all of the 25 white molasses-based rums that I have studied.

Of the above PR rums, Palo Viejo is my favorite. It carries the most flavor of molasses, thus to me it "tastes like rum" and is one of the least harsh ones. When judged in context next to the other white rums it is quite good, though Cruzan White and Pyrat Blanco are certainly better. Oronoco blows them all away, IMHO, but isn't quite in this "molasses-based" category. If it were included we'd have to include cachaças and agricoles.


As to why PR rum is less diverse in flavor... Well, I'm not sure that this is a fair statement. I've had plenty of whites that are similarly poor in taste. To me it seems that white rums in general have gone downhill, from things I've heard and tastes that I can imagine. I'd bet that Bacardi had something to do with it as others played the game of "follow the leader."

I really have to wonder if the current state of whites' tastes has to do with American tastes. Given that vodka is, by far, the number one spirit in the US, it just may be that the white rums try to get close to vodka, in order to get more sales away from vodka. If this is the reason, it's a damned shame.

I've read articles from Jeff "Beachbum" Berry (Tiki cocktail historian) and Wayne Curtis (Author of "And A Bottle Of Rum") who both describe their separate encounters with Bacardi white rums from the 1920s. I've discussed this a bit with Jeff, too. From their descriptions I get the sense - easily - that the old Bacardi is nothing at all like today's white rums. It was fruity and floral with a lot of taste and much smoother than the white rums of today. I'd have to assume that these rums were made using Bacardi's process of heavy distillation and filtering, the process that made them famous.

Why the heck did they change for the worse between then and today?

Considering American tastes and their love of vodka it makes sense, on the surface, that rum makers wanted a slice of vodka's business and geared their rums to taste more like vodka. But this theory has potential flaws, since bourbon was the top seller until 1976, when vodka finally got to be #1 in US sales. One could easily theorize that rum had little chance of cutting into bourbon's business, so rum makers went after the easier target and tried to cut into vodka sales. And it's probable that they were doing so long before 1976.

The stories from Curtis and Berry make it apparent that the Bacardi of the 1920s was quite different than today's. Research into tiki cocktails, which often contained white PR rums, it seems likely that the rums of the 1940s and even 1950s were quite different than today's. But then my research fades, as tiki began to fail.

I occasionally run into some information, but nothing definitive. I've got two books on Bacardi waiting to be read - hopefully they'll contain some insight. Until I find some great insight or fairly definitive reasoning, I have to go with the assumption that the rum makers changed their products to taste more like vodka. But this theory, at this point in my research, is still rather thin. Little of my research has been definitive, and much of what I've said here should be considered opinion backed by some facts.


Hopefully Ed can share more information and insight. I've got a serious hankering to know more about the development - or regression - of white rums over the years.

[Edward Hamilton]

Before World War II Puerto Rican rum wasn't much different from other Caribbean rums. The white, unaged rum was not very pleasant but when aged it was much better and found its way into many citrus and spice based drinks became to be known as tiki drinks. It should be noted that few of these rums were considered what we now call sipping rums.

After World War II the picture changed in part due to the United States involvement in Puerto Rico and the cold war. To reward the Puerto Rican people for their valuable contribution to the recent war effort, and to support the fledgling Puerto Rican economy, the US agreed to return the Federal Excise Tax charged on distilled spirits coming from Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands back to the governments of those islands. Today that tax is just over $25 a case for 12 750ml bottles. Until recently, the US navy's biggest base outside the north American continent was located on the southeastern coast of Puerto Rico.

During the war alcohol distillers on the US mainland were busy making alcohol for the war effort and whiskey was in short supply. Rum, on the other hand, was available but most of this spirit suffered from the poor reputation it had earned over the previous decades.

In the 1950s the quality of Puerto Rican rum was raised after Federal Excise Tax from distilled spirits exports began to be returned to the island and was used to scientifically approach the problems that face the islands distillers. This scientific approach to rum production yielded several changes which were later adopted by distillers throughout the Caribbean.

First the fermentation process was addressed. The cleanliness of the fermentation tanks was discovered to be one factor in making consistent batches of distilled spirits. Various yeast strains were found to affect the taste and flavor of the distilled product. Yeast was developed which would complete the fermentation process more quickly reducing the time required for fermentation which also reduced the amount of unwanted fermentation products from other bacteria present in the fermentation vats.

The scientific approach to distillation led to improvements in the distillation equipment and to more advanced multiple column stills. The Puerto Rican government also adapted legislation that required all rum exports to be aged at least one year in oak barrels, the first of several islands which now has such regulations. And as Puerto Rican rum improved it became more popular partly due to a very successful marketing campaign by Bacardi, Ron Rico and other Puerto Rican rum producers.

Last but not least, the sugar cane itself was investigated and new species were introduced which were better adapted to the diverse growing conditions found on the island.

So what about the great rum from the 1920s? I've had the opportunity to taste some very good rums from Bacardi and other rums makers, but it's worth noting that in almost every case only the best products survive the better part of a century. But it should also be noted that these rums were generally aged and then filtered before bottling. In the years that followed, the aging time was reduced or eliminated prompting the Puerto Rican government to legislate a minimum age on exports.

And as a student of old rum recipes I've noticed that most of these recipes call for aged rums, which are generally better than their unaged counterparts. Many of the great tiki drinks were developed with aged Jamaican, Martinique, Barbados and Cuban rums, rarely have I seen a recipe that calls for a white spirit that is not been aged.

[Scottes]

This scientific approach to rum production yielded several changes...
Have you had the opportunity to read any of the papers from Rafael Arroyo? Any ideas where I can get any, in English?

Many of the great tiki drinks were developed with aged Jamaican, Martinique, Barbados and Cuban rums, rarely have I seen a recipe that calls for a white spirit that is not been aged.
Are you saying that some of these "white" rums where in fact aged for extended periods and then filtered? I think about Flor De Cana's 4-year aging, and I have a hard time believing that this is on par with the rum that Jeff Berry and Wayne Curtis describe. Would that 1920s Bacardi rums they tasted have been aged even longer?

[RobertBurr]

I recently had the pleasure of hosting a rum tasting event featuring some notable rums from Puerto Rico. We started with the new Limon flavored rum from Don Q, which is delightful straight or on the rocks, or in a mojito as we discovered. We also sampled Don Q Anejo and a new spirit to be introduced to the US market soon, Don Q Gran Anejo. The Anejo is perhaps the classic Puerto Rican gold rum, worthy of being enjoyed on the rocks, or mixed in a fine cocktail. The Gran Anejo, originally blended to celebrate the 500th anniversary of Columbus' discovery of Puerto Rico, takes the fine flavor another step in the direction of greatness. We also tasted the classic Barrilito Three Star, a clear favorite among rum enthusiasts on the island. The surprise of the evening was another fine product soon to be introduced to the US market, Reserva Aneja by Trigo. Finally, we tasted the Private Stock from Captain Morgan, a spiced rum more suitable for sipping that their standard spiced rum.

[Edward Hamilton]

Would that 1920s Bacardi rums they tasted have been aged even longer?

As an indication of age, the label on Havana Club's Blanco Aсejo claims 3 years.

In regards to the 4 year old Flor de Caсa white, it is distilled to a much higher degree than the white rums to which Wayne and Jeff are referring which gives it a lighter taste although the last time I tasted that one there were hints of citrus in the light body and finish.

[Scottes]

Ed, sorry to repeat, but I'm very interested... Any ideas on obtaining the works of Rafael Arroyo?

[Edward Hamilton]

Here is a description of patent number 2,386,924 (http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/Listings2.htm) filed Oct 16, 1945 by Rafael Arroyo titled Production of Heavy Rum.

[Scottes]

Yeah, that's the only thing I could find, too. Bummer. His works sound like they'd be extremely interesting.

[Edward Hamilton]

I'll continue looking for other things in English.

[Matusalem]

First, Ed thanks for taking the time to try to sort some of this out.

To be clearer, Scottes, I wasn't speaking specifically of white or light rums. I use to be o.k. with Bacardi, many years ago. I'm not sure if it was a choices are limited thing, my palate having grown as a result of more local choices or the integration of the internet adding choices, or if it can all be blamed on slippage by Bacardi.

To be fair, I don't know the bulk of Puerto Rican rums, but the few that I've tasted are not my favorites. I'm not a huge fan of Dominican rum either. Don't get me wrong both PR and DR rum have their places and fans, but I find the majority of what I have tasted to be less dimensional, and that's probably a design feature.

Also keep in mind, I'm slowly opening up to rum from other perspectives. My main focus had been sipping caliber rum with an occasional scientific experiment in cocktails. As the caliber of what's going into cocktails has stepped up a notch (for me), I find myself much more receptive to the thought of using (some) of my rum for that purpose. Perhaps my disposition with PR & DR rums will improve as a result?

To move ahead to my next question for Ed, you mentioned distilling improvements (technologically speaking)... I'm just contemplating of course, but I did have some older Bacardi on a couple (two literally) occasions and thought it was a much more intriguing spirit, but at the same time was unsure of the effects of it being stored for such lengths of time. What I'm wondering is if you think being that PR is a somewhat developed island compared to some others, could these technological advancements have perhaps washed out some of the individual characteristics that might have been found in older batch runs of PR rum?

In advance I realize this is generalizing and the discussion is primarily around Bacardi. If there is a PR rum you highly recommend for sipping please let me know. As for DR rums, maybe I'm just biased. I don't care for Brugal at all. It isn't a tragedy but I just don't have space in my cabinet for it. I also thought domestically available Matusalem took quite a hit the minute it stopped being produced in Florida and switched production to the DR.

Any thoughts? All are appreciated by the way.;)

[Rum Runner]

A very interesting topic here. After living here in Puerto Rico for 10 years I think I'm beginning to form an opinion of what happened. I do agree with Matusalem that there is a lack of breadth in the flavor profile of rum here. The cause I believe is do to the fact that are only two companies actually distilling here anymore. Bacardi and Serralles. I find this shocking in an Island this size with such a history in rum production. Both Bacardi and Serralles have led the charge in the "vodka-ization" of white (and Gold) rum here, essentially producing rum for those who don't like rum. To this end they have been very successful and do produce a high quality product inside this genre. These are not serious rums warranting serious assessment. Trying to do a serious tasting of these is like trying to pick out the differences between Miller Lite and Coors Lite....Not much to work with here. They are made and marketed for mixing to a public that wants to drink something sweet with a kick. Of course there has been a bit of a backlash to this trend across categories in recent years with micro breweries, single malt Scotch, special edition Bourbon, and now Artisanal and aged Rum. Both Bacardi and Serralles have made a small nod to this with bottlings of some older stock with mixed results to my palate. It's sad to me that they have not at least produced a "token" bottling that shows they can stand with the worlds best when it comes to connoisseur Rum. Oddly, my favorite Bacardi Rum (the 8 anos) is made in the Bahamas and bottled in San Juan!....Go figure. Alas, this only represents a niche market in the overall sales picture to huge concerns like Bacardi and Serralles.

The only other rum "producers" here are Fernandez with Barrilito (which stands on its' own merits) and Trigo, which produces Ron Canito Curao (which stands apart from all other white rum I've tasted here) as well as Riserva Aneja. It's a shame that others have not stepped forward to at least "produce" (if not distill and produce) a world class connoisseur rum of which Puerto Rico could be rightfully proud.

[Matusalem]

<caaaa-rack> ...the sound of wood striking ball as "Rum Runner" knocks a towering shot out of the stadium!!:eek:

Thank you sir for the detailed response. Vodka-ization of rum. Love the terminology - mainly because it perfectly describes my interpretation of PR rums I've tasted in recent years.

Way down on the list of items that don't strike my fancy rests vodka - something I know many people enjoy - but it just isn't for me either. I'm glad you were able to state what you believe has taken place. It's hard for myself as I'm not interested in offending or upsetting anyone, and certainly don't want to stereotype Puerto Rico etc.

On a personal level, take for example single malt scotch. I enjoy and dibble and dabble in various makes. Many people gravitate to Lowland & what is termed Speyside whiskies because they are deemed more approachable. There isn't much made lowland these days and I've had some that was good, (different Rosebank presentations for example), but for the most part, Lowland whisky isn't my thing.

On the other end of the spectrum I love ronchy Islay and island whiskies and could live off of truer Highland styled drams as well. Many steer clear of the Islay whisky because its often rambunctious (sp?) nature is considered less approachable or user-friendly. For me those nuances are additional flavors - something I appreciate, but I can certainly understand the next person who finds them unbearable or unattractive.

OTOH, Lowlands tend to be straight forward and to my buds, lack complexity (not unlike my reception to vodka). What I taste in Lowlands is not all that much but definitely alcohol. What I taste in vodka is even less with the exception of there being even more alcohol forward.

What I taste in most white rums as I believe Scottes was describing is somewhere in the same neighborhood - little to nothing with the exception of forward alcohol (so vodka-ization fits that perfect).

When we get into aged rums from PR, most of what I've tasted is comparable in the range of flavor I get with Lowland Scotch whisky. There's a little something there, but not much and it's not like between brands & iterations with-in brands that there are huge profile differences.

Again to be clear, these observations are solely based on what exposure I've had. You named a couple of items I have not had the pleasure to become acquainted with - which to me says my experience & conclusion are limited in focus.

[Rum Runner]

Taking a liesurely Manny Ramirez stroll around the bases......


Given our own subjective preferences in taste, I give the devil (or bat) his due. Bacardi and Serralles produce high quality, HIGHLY recitfied spirits in the white and gold types which make excellent mixers for certain drinks suited to the modern palate of most consumers. I can tell you that no one down here is drinking these rums neat and expounding on the quality.....Well....Except for the guys I see in the market at 7 AM buying a pint of Palo Viejo white (the least expensive rum sold here) and speaking in Spanish of "That awkward hour of the day between ones' last cup of coffee and ones' first belt of the Old Tree"....Always cracks me up.

To a large degree the Puerto Rican public has "bought the hype", frankly being overwhelmed by the sexy marketing of both Bacardi and Serralles.

The consolidation of the industry from the 40's through the 80's in the wake of the Bacardi success left the remaining distilleries (once owned by Seagrams, now by Serralles) following the Bats lead and taking a slighty different marketing approach with basically the same product.

The Artisanal producers (except Fernandez) were left by the wayside, and somewhere along the way Puerto Rico lost it's soul in high quality aged connoisseur rum production.

So...Any of you lads have a rich uncle? I see about 60 acres that are prime for growing cane here....and an empty wharehouse next to it....I'll provide sweat equity in modest exchange for a few shares and a lifetime supply of the produce...and we all ride off into glory bringing Puerto Rico back to the realm. Mi Tierra! Mi Bandera! Mi Gente!

[Dood]

So...Any of you lads have a rich uncle? I see about 60 acres that are prime for growing cane here....and an empty wharehouse next to it....I'll provide sweat equity in modest exchange for a few shares and a lifetime supply of the produce...and we all ride off into glory bringing Puerto Rico back to the realm. Mi Tierra! Mi Bandera! Mi Gente!

*starts calculating how much money he'd have if he could liquidate his wife's My Little Pony collection (1200 plastic equestrian statues)*

Speaking of Bacardi and their success...I was reading an article somewhere today about the fact that rum sales are on the decline and a lot of people are blaming Bacardi's successful bid to promote its brand over its spirit - i.e. people know they're ordering Bacardi, but not necessarily that they're ordering rum.

I'll have to see I can find that article again.

[Rum Runner]

Dear Dood..We have to start somewhere in the fundraising..If your wife's collection is it...Then so be it....I'll avail my wife's collection of Cupie Dolls. Hell..I'll throw in my collection of briar and meerschaum pipes too, just to get the ball rolling.

Interesting on the post of reduced rum sales and the impact of the said 800 pound Gorilla.

[Hank Koestner]

Thank you , gentlemen, for the wealth of info and great opinions. Ron Barrilito rums will always have a place on my shelf, and I agree about other PR rums. I brought home a bottle of Reserva Anejo on my last trip, and was very disappointed. I am thinking about adding some "spice", if I ever find the time.

[Rum Runner]

A pleasure Hank, for my part. I agree that Reserva Aneja is more about the bottle than about what is inside.

I placed a call to the Marketing Director of Trigo Corp which produces such, two days ago. I just wanted to inquire about what they produced. No call back as yet...
Regards

[Edward Hamilton]

I've met a lot of people in the last fifteen years who didn't realize that Bacardi. And an equally large number of people who couldn't name more than two rum brands. One of the most compelling reasons that I wrote my first book was that hordes of people were coming to the Caribbean every week with the thought of lying on the beach and drinking rum all day, but didn't know anything but Bacardi and were afraid to try anything else in large part because they had never heard of any of the other brands and were afraid to try them.

[Dood]

I believe it. When people find out I'm in to rums but that I try to avoid Captain and Bacardi I often get asked if that means that I drink Malibu because that's the only other rum anyone seems to know about.

It's a sad state of affairs...but I work to open people's eyes to the broader world as much as I can. ;)

[Scottes]

but I work to open people's eyes to the broader world as much as I can. ;)
Yes, same here. After the first tasting I did for a bunch of friends I was overwhelmed with how overwhelmed they were. And they were a bunch of tiki cocktail enthusiasts, but few of them ever tasted the rum itself. I can wait until I get a room full of vodka drinkers and open their eyes and taste buds.

[Dood]

Yes, same here. After the first tasting I did for a bunch of friends I was overwhelmed with how overwhelmed they were. And they were a bunch of tiki cocktail enthusiasts, but few of them ever tasted the rum itself. I can wait until I get a room full of vodka drinkers and open their eyes and taste buds.

I've been mostly working with the "low-hanging fruit" of whiskey drinkers. I only say "low-hanging" because it's been incredibly easy to bring fans of Bourbon, Scotch, Canadian, Irish, Whatever over to aged rums - almost TOO easy.

Maybe I need to focus on gin-drinkers...

[Rum Runner]

I've met a lot of people in the last fifteen years who didn't realize that Bacardi. And an equally large number of people who couldn't name more than two rum brands. One of the most compelling reasons that I wrote my first book was that hordes of people were coming to the Caribbean every week with the thought of lying on the beach and drinking rum all day, but didn't know anything but Bacardi and were afraid to try anything else in large part because they had never heard of any of the other brands and were afraid to try them.


Agreed Ed. Puerto Rico does not have a monopoly on "buying the hype"...Most of the rest of the world did too.

[Hank Koestner]

I speak frequently with people here, bartenders included, about rum. I try to educate them a little, and tanatalize thier curiosities. I see more good rums available at bars, but it is a slow process. I am thinking about trying to start a local rum club, and hopefully, by the spring, my schedule will settle down enough that I will have the time.

[Matusalem]

*starts calculating how much money he'd have if he could liquidate his wife's My Little Pony collection (1200 plastic equestrian statues)*

Speaking of Bacardi and their success...I was reading an article somewhere today about the fact that rum sales are on the decline and a lot of people are blaming Bacardi's successful bid to promote its brand over its spirit - i.e. people know they're ordering Bacardi, but not necessarily that they're ordering rum.

I'll have to see I can find that article again.Following your note, I was recently looking at another article that ranked brands by profits tallied (worldwide). What is obvious up front, we can't be sure what the parameters were to measure this but I thought it was interesting in comparison that for example:

Jack Daniels ranked #3 for gross margin. They sold 4.7M 9 liter cases with a total gross margin of $400M.

Bacardi ranked #5 for gross margin. They sold 8.7M 9 liter cases with a total gross margin of $295M.

(*M = million)

What struck me is in the comparison and I realize Jack Daniels commands a slight premium over the average bottle of Bacardi, but I figured that the cost to produce JD products because whiskey requirements and standards, would outweigh Bacardi's rum production costs. So I thought it strange that Bacardi would move almost twice as much product but land $105M shorter.

I tend to agree. A lot of people have no idea what rum is made from, where it was made etc, but they are all familiar with Bacardi.

Is Bacardi barred from entry to France? I don't recall seeing any the times I was there and distinctly recall a tourist once asking a tender for a B&C - I didn't catch all the 'play by play' but the man left thirsty.

[Rum Runner]

Bacardi is not only sold in France, it also maintains distilling and bottling facilities there.

[Dood]

I speak frequently with people here, bartenders included, about rum. I try to educate them a little, and tanatalize thier curiosities. I see more good rums available at bars, but it is a slow process. I am thinking about trying to start a local rum club, and hopefully, by the spring, my schedule will settle down enough that I will have the time.

I've been considering doing the same thing. Currently my retirement dream (well, one of them) is to open a bar with a focus on rum here in SoCal with my brother.

[Scottes]

Following your note, I was recently looking at another article that ranked brands by profits tallied (worldwide).
Do you have a link? I'm quite curious.

[Matusalem]

No it was in May / June 2007's "Market Watch" magazine or trade journal what ever it is called. If you really want it, shoot me a snailer and I can try to xerox it to you.

Aside from the charted rankings, particularly disturbing about the article is the under tone suggestion that merchants and distributors should practically abandon every thing that isn't in the top 25.

Southern Comfort is #25 to give you some idea of how grim things would be were that philosophy to become contagious. Bacardi, Captain Morgan and Malibu would be your choices in rum.

[Rum Runner]

Obviously, rags like Market Watch are looking at the industry as it deals in millions of $. Happily, there are a number of merchants who are willng to stock the more ephemeral spirits along side the usual offerings, with the knowledge that the consumer can be traded "up" if the the merchant has the foresight. Poco a Poco...Little by Little